20 Aug How to Hike the Narrows in Zion National Park
Out of all the 54 stops I put on my USA road trip itinerary, Zion National Park was the one I looked forward to most. And that’s all because of this hike: The Narrows. I mean, talk about a bucket list item! The Narrows is one of the coolest trails in the U.S. that follows the Virgin River in between narrow slot canyons whose walls flow with texture and tower over you. To this day, hiking the Narrows is one of my favorite life experiences and something I’m always recommending!
But when I first showed up in Zion, I came only with excitement and no actual knowledge about how to hike this unique trail. I literally got the permit to do the strenuous pro version without having any of the right gear then realizing I was in over my head and switching up my plans.
If you’re dying to do this hike too but don’t know anything about it, you probably have no idea what I’m talking about. But I got you! In this post, I’ll go over the different ways to hike the Narrows, how to do each route, gear that you need, and useful tips overall.
For a full travel guide to Zion National Park, read this post!
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There are two routes...
So first of all, there are two different ways you can go about hiking the Narrows: top to bottom or bottom and back. To help you understand this, the trail is along the Virgin River and in one slot canyon that extends 16 miles. Therefore once you go in, the only way out is going back the way you came or continuing on to the other end.
Top to Bottom
Starting from the top at Chamberlain’s Ranch, and hiking all the way to the bottom to Temple of Sinawava.
- 16 miles total round trip.
- A wilderness permit is required.
- The trailhead begins at Chamberlain’s Ranch (1.5 hours drive from Zion Canyon) and ends in Zion Canyon Temple of Sinawava.
- Zion park does not provide transportation to the trailhead, it’s up to you to get there.
- The hike can be done in the course of two days and camping overnight, or in one long day starting very early.
- Backpacking/camping gear is required for staying overnight.
Bottom and Back
Starting from the bottom at Temple of Sinawava and hiking in and then back down to where you started.
- You can hike as far in as you wish and double back around whenever, but the most you can hike is 9.5 miles total (so 5 miles in and 5 miles out).
- No permit is required.
- The trailhead begins in Zion Canyon at Temple of Sinawava and also ends here.
- Zion’s shuttle brings you directly to the trailhead at stop #9 Temple of Sinawava.
- Trail completetion time depends on how far you go, if you plan to do the full 9.5 miles it will take the whole day and one should start early.
- Waterproof and supportive gear highly recommend.
Hiking The Narrows Bottom and Back
This is the most popular route, so we’ll start here. First of all, if you chose this route instead of the longer top to bottom version and are wondering if you’ll be missing out in any way, think again! The bottom and back route has some of the most beautiful and most narrow areas of the canyon! So no fomo needed.
Before You Go:
Planning your day and what to bring
Before you head off to trudge through the Virgin River, you absolutely should be prepared. First this requires a lil safety check. Check the Zion website or visitor center to see if there’s any chance of flash floods or anything else you should be aware of.
Next, make sure you have the right gear. I’m talking shoes with traction that won’t slip easily on wet rocks, shoes and clothing you don’t mind getting wet or waterproof pants if it’s chilly, a waterproof bag, snacks and lots of water, a hiking stick, etc. This is super important if you plan on hiking for awhile. You can read more about gear later in this post.
Lastly, plan out your day. If you want to hike the full 9.5 miles in and out, I suggest starting early in the morning because it will take up your whole day. That being said, if you’re also renting gear then you should probably do so the night before.
Getting to the Trailhead
The Narrows bottom and back trail begins at Temple of Sinawava which is in Zion Canyon. It can be accessed by taking the Zion shuttle to stop #9, then the trailhead is a short walk to the canyon entrance.
If you’re not familiar with the Zion Shuttle System, you can learn more in my full travel guide to Zion National Park. But essentially, you drive into the park to the visitor center, and from here take the shuttle to Temple of Sinawava where The Narrows begin.
*Note that during COVID-19 the Zion shuttle buses are not on a first come first serve basis like usual. Instead you must reserve a ticket online before coming. You can read more about it in my full travel guide to visiting Zion National Park in 2020.
Time to Hike!
Woo! The moment has come to hike the epic narrows and you should be so excited! Here’s a little of what to expect…
The first mile or so of the hike is called the Riverside walk. The canyon is wider, and it’s not all river, there are some small portions of ground to walk and rest. Here it will be extremely crowded because it’s so accessible and great for people who cannot hike far or who have kids with them.
Farther along the hike will begin to get narrower and the water get’s deeper – sometimes past your waist! This is when you will find less people around. Eventually you will get to what’s called Wall Street which is the narrowest part of the slot canyon and is S T U N N I N G.
From Wall Street, a lot of people turn around, but if you’re able to, continuing on is worth it in my opinion. The Narrows is so beautiful that when exploring you just want to keep going! There are places deep enough to swim, more beautiful parts of the canyon, and it’s such a fulfilling adventure to get all the way to Big Springs (the farthest you can go without a permit before turning back).
However, definitely be aware of your limits. When deciding how far to go, remember you have to hike back out the same distance. For people who are able, I think getting to Wall Street is a great goal, and then from there assess your energy levels, the time, etc.
My sister and I when hiking The Narrows bottom and back did go as far as possible and it was incredible. But, the way back was SO tiring and it can be really difficult on your ankles. So keep that in mind!
If you’re not interested in learning about hiking The Narrows Top to Bottom, skip down to Tips You Should Absolutely Follow!
Hiking The Narrows Top to Bottom
*Wilderness permits are not being given during COVID-19 and so the top to bottom route is off limits right now (08/20/2020). Check the Zion website for details or changes.
So for full transparency, I have never actually hiked the Narrows top to bottom. However I was planning to until I realized it just wasn’t practical for my trip at the time (I didn’t have the right gear, and my sister would have died lol). That being said, even though I don’t have first hand experience actually hiking the route, I do have some useful knowledge if you’re considering doing it.
Getting a Permit
Before anything, know that a wilderness permit is required to complete this trail. You must decide if you’ll do the full hike in one day or if you will camp overnight. The permit can be gotten in a few ways:
First, the permit can be reserved up to 3 months in advance online. Availability is made on the fifth day of every month for that time frame.
If the reservations fill up, there’s also a last minute drawing 2-7 days in advance. Applying to a last minute drawing is done online.
Lastly, if anyone cancels their reservation, then walk-in permits at the Zion visitor center the day before going are also available. This is actually how I got my permit (even though I ended up not going), so it is possible.
If you’ve never gotten a wilderness permit, it’s essentially meant to protect the land and make sure that you understand how to do that (leave no trace, etc.). It’s also to make sure that you understand safety precautions and basically what you’re getting yourself into. When I got my permit for the Narrows, the things that stood out to me most were being aware of flash floods and the leave no trace laws (you’re literally given a sealed bag to poop in).
Permits are $15 for 1-2 people, and $20 – $25 for larger groups.
You can learn more about getting a permit here.
Before You Go
Safety, Gear and Choosing 1 or 2 Days
Before getting your permit, decide if you will do the hike in one day or over 2 days. The hike typically takes 12 hours, so if doing it in one day, you will need to start very early. Most (and I would have to agree) prefer to do it in 2 days so you can enjoy it more without being rushed.
Being prepared is essential for this hike. Before going, check the flash floods likelihood status on the Zion website or at the visitor center.
Most importantly, make sure you have all the right gear including a waterproof bag, apparel that is waterproof, shoes that will not slip on wet rock, plenty of food and water, a hiking stick and all the camping gear you need.
Like I mentioned, I never did this hike because I was unprepared when it came to gear, so if you’re considering it then do some extra research on how to pack.
How to Get to The Trailhead
The trail begins at Chamberlain’s Ranch which is about a 1.5 hour drive from Zion Canyon. Zion park does not offer transportation to the trailhead, and so private transportation is required.
If you are traveling with a group and have two cars, one option is to leave one car in Springdale (right outside Zion Canyon), and then take the other car to the trailhead. After hiking the Narrows, jump in that car to go retrieve your car at Chamberlain’s Ranch.
The other option is to hire a driver or private shuttle. When I was considering this hike a park employee gave me these resources to check out.
Camping
If you decided to take your time on this hike and camp overnight, there are 12 campsites within the gorge. When you get your permit, specify that you will be camping and the date and campsite will be on your permit. Make sure to bring necessary camping gear that you are able to hike with, and to follow the leave no trace laws.
Tips You Should Absolutely Follow!
No matter which route you take, top to bottom or bottom and back, these tips are so important.
1. Don’t underestimate having a hiking stick! You 100% need one
This is not for show to get adventurous looking pictures, it’s actually so helpful! With flowing water, slippery rocks and tired ankles, it’s so easy to fall. A hiking stick reduces that chance and will be your best friend on this hike.
2. If you have a smart watch, bring it
You can’t really get lost in the Narrows because there’s only two directions. However, you can lose track of how far you’ve gone. And especially when hiking bottom and back, this is important to know in order to assess if you should keep going or turn back.
This is where a smart watch or any other device that can track your distance would be super handy! Just make sure it’s waterproof.
3. Keep track of the time and your pace!
Time is essential when hiking the Narrows. If you are hiking top to bottom you need to set a steady pace to reach your campsite or the end of the trail before dark. And if you’re hiking bottom and back, you need to keep track of how much time was spent hiking in, so you’re aware how long it will take to hike back out before dark.
4. Have plenty of Water and food
Obviously if you’re doing the top to bottom hike, you’ll need food and water whether you stay overnight or hiking for 12 hours in one day. But even for the bottom and back hike, I highly recommend bringing snacks high in nutrients. I did the full 9.5 miles hike and was completely drained. Trust me – you will need that energy boost.
5. A waterproof bag is a must
Don’t be tricked into seeing photos where the water is shallow and think, “I’m not going to drop my bag, so I’m good with my regular backpack.” In some parts the water is above your waist and falling is super common. Especially with a camera and phone in your bag, don’t even risk it.
6. Start Early
The earlier you start, the more time you have to hike and the more flexibility you have if you decide to go farther and make it back before dark without rushing when you’re exhausted.
Gear You Need and Where to Get IT
As I’ve mentioned several times now through this post, the right gear is so important!
Here are the essentials:
- Hiking stick
- Waterproof bag to store your camera/phone, water, and snacks
- Shoes with ankle support and that will not slip
*If you’re doing the top to bottom hike staying over night you’ll need to do some extra research for camping gear.
Waterproof pants are also good when the water is colder, but in the middle of July, I just wore regular Nike shorts I didn’t mind getting wet and never felt cold or uncomfortable.
If you do not already own the gear I mentioned, there are some places you can rent from in Springdale, right outside the park. The two main places are Zion Outfitters and Zion Adventure Company. They usually have packages for the 3 items I recommend for $30ish renting for 24 hours. If you’re planning to leave early morning to hike, consider renting the gear the night before and then returning it directly after your hike.
And there you have it! Everything you need to know for hiking The Narrows, the most epic trail!
For a full travel guide to visiting Zion National Park including getting there, park fees, navigating the shuttle, where to stay AND more cool hikes, check out my full travel guide to visiting Zion!
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