01 Jan Travel Guide to Colombia’s Tatacoa Desert
Tatacoa Desert or Desierto de Tatacoa is one of the most unique destinations in Colombia. With a red-painted landscape and eroding canyons, it reminded me a lot of Bryce Canyon meets Badlands (for those familiar with U.S. national parks). It definitely wasn’t a place I expected from Colombia which is known for its greenery and coffee farms.
But in this majestic dry land, you can wander through the canyons, gaze into the stars, practice landscape or astrophotography, and relax in a pool to escape the desert heat.
For the explorers and nature lovers, Tatacoa Desert is the perfect weekend getaway whether you’re living in Bogota or are a backpacker looking for an off-the-beaten path destination.
Learn about things to do in Tatacoa, how to get there, where to stay, and my extra tips for visiting below:
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THINGS TO DO IN IN TATACOA Desert
1. Explore the red and gray desert
There are two main areas to see, the red desert and the gray desert. In both, you can either explore on your own or hire a guide to learn about the history and geology of the landscape. I personally opted out of the tour because when it comes to nature I prefer to explore on my own.
But if you’d like, hiring a guide is about 30,000 COP ≈ $7.50 USD per person.
If you choose to explore freely, know there isn’t really a main trail to follow, just get lost out there with a curious mind. But don’t actually get lost…it can be pretty vast especially in the gray desert so keep track of where you are with an offline map.
To get to the deserts, you’ll most likely need to hire a tuk tuk driver to take you around. You can read more on this below in How to Get Around, but my friend and I paid 50,000 COP ≈ $12 USD each for our driver to drive us around the desert. Drivers know all the locations so you won’t need to worry about where to go. However, the entrances are also on Google Maps if needed.
2. Escape the heat and swim in a pool
Most hotels in the area will have a pool because of the heat. And trust me, after exploring the desert you’ll be extremely grateful for that! There’s also the pool open to the public at the entrance of the gray desert. The entrance fee is 8,000 COP ≈ $2 USD.
3. Stargaze
Tatacoa is blessed with clear skies and little light pollution which makes it the perfect place to stargaze. I highly recommend heading to the Observatory and participating in guided stargazing. You’ll lay on a mat, stare at the stars and your guide will point out all the various constellations. Our guide spoke both English and Spanish and was hilarious, making it a really fun experience. This is only 10,000 COP per person ≈ $2.50 USD.
4. Practice landscape and astrophotography
Because the landscape is so unique, this is a really fun place to take photos and get the creative juices flowing. It’s great for landscape photography, astrophotography, and portraits. When you visit, definitely don’t forget your camera and tripod, and if you have a drone – bring it! The texture from above will blow your mind.
HOW TO GET TO TATACOA DESERT
Tatacoa Desert is 45 km north of a city called Nieva. To visit the desert, you’ll first need to get to Nieva and then take a shuttle bus from there.
STEP 1A: Getting to Neiva from Cali
From Cali to Neiva you can either fly or a take a bus.
Like Medellin, most flights are not direct and involve a layover in Bogota. However, on some days there is a direct flight from Cali to Nieva with EasyFly. You can search for flights here.
Otherwise the bus is your next option. The bus from Cali to Neiva is about 11 hours or more so an overnight bus may be the best option. There are a number of companies to book through, you can easily compare options on BusBud.
STEP 1B: Getting to Neiva from Bogota
It’s easiest to get to Tatacoa Desert from Bogota, so this is where I suggest coming from. You can either take a direct flight to Neiva or take a bus.
The bus to Neiva is about 8 hours from the Bogota Bus Terminal. You can reserve your bus ticket ahead of time on BusBud or purchase at the terminal with Coomoter (the most frequent) or Rápido Tolima. Tickets should be around $15 USD.
STEP 1C: Getting to Neiva From Medellin:
There is no direct flight to Neiva from Medellin, so it’s a longer journey with 3 different options:
1. Take a flight to Bogota, have a layover and then fly to Neiva. Check flight prices here.
2. Take a bus all the way from Medellin to Neiva. It’s a long one, estimated to be about 17 hours and around $35 USD. You can check bus options here.
3. Fly to Bogota from Medellin and then take a bus to Neiva. I suggest finding a cheap ticket with Skyscanner which will be a short flight. After landing at the Bogota airport take a taxi to the Bogota Bus Terminal. You can reserve your bus ticket ahead of time on BusBud or purchase at the terminal with Coomoter (the most frequent) or Rápido Tolima. Tickets should be around $15 USD.
Personally, after doing it myself I don’t recommend coming from Medellin because it was a long trip. But if you’re based in Medellin (like I was) I recommend just flying the whole way.
STEP 2: Getting from Nieva to Villavieja/Tatacoa Desert:
If you’re arriving in Nieva by bus you’ll be in the right place; if arriving by air you’ll need to get a taxi to the Nieva Bus Terminal. At the terminal go to a Coomotor desk or any other (they’ll direct you to the right place) and purchase a ticket to Villavieja. It will be a collectivo/shuttle bus and take between 45 minutes – 2 hours depending on stops along the way. Ideally ask for a direct route if it’s available. One ticket should be 10,000 COP ≈ $2.50 USD.
Want an easier trip?
If all this coordination seems to confusing and you’d rather not bother then there are other options to visit Tatacoa Desert
WHERE TO STAY WHEN VISITING TATACOA
Most stays for Tatacoa Desert will be in Villavieja and are for the most part pretty basic.
When I visited following COVID there were even fewer options so I stayed at Tubo Hotel, which was interesting…wouldn’t condemn it but also didn’t absolutely love it. It feels similar to a hostel with common areas outside, there are some shared bathrooms and a pool. However, no dorms, the rooms are all private and literally tubes.
This tube theme is cool in theory, but because of the small size the “rooms” it can be crowded with two people. My friend and I stayed in one together which was fine because we’re both small, but otherwise it would be a lot. For couples, I suggest the larger tube option with a private toilet. Thankfully though, all rooms have air con, a major bonus in the intense heat.
Other good options for accommodation in Tatacoa Desert are Hotel Colonial Villavieja and Alojamiento Casa de Campo Los Cactus for the budget travelers.
WAYS TO GET AROUND tatacoa Desert
Walking: Being able to walk places will greatly depend on where you’re staying. You may be close enough to walk to either the observatory, one part of the desert (the entrance to the red and gray are not close to each other) or Villavieja depending on your hotel’s location.
Tuk tuk: Most likely this is how you’ll get around. From Tubo hostel, my friend and I hired a tuk tuk to take us around the desert by day and then later at night to pick us up again for stargazing at the observatory. To hire the tuk tuk for the day to the desert, we paid our driver 50,000 COP each (~ $12 USD). To get to the observatory at night, we paid our driver 20,000 COP each (~ $5 USD). If you’d like a tuk tuk, just ask your hotel front desk and they can call someone.
TIPS FOR VISITING
1. Wear a lot of bug spray
Truth be told, Tatacoa Desert was a mixed experience for my friend and I because we forgot our bug spray and within 1 hour in the desert our legs were covered in mosquito or fly bites that left a blood mark and then swelled up later. To avoid getting 100 bites per leg like me (literally, because I counted), please for the love of God remember to pack and wear bug spray.
2. Explore in the morning or afternoon
To avoid the strength of the midday sun, either start your day early or in the afternoon. We started in the morning, finished exploring the desert by noon/1 PM and then soaked near the pool and napped before heading to the observatory at night.
For photographers, this is also good to avoid the harsh light of midday and have some shadows for depth.
3. Make sure to choose accomodation with air conditioned rooms
Don’t assume all rooms will have it, many don’t. So if that’s a necessity for you make sure to double check when booking accommodation.
4. Bring plenty of cash
Villavieja is a small town, and you may not even be staying there (if you chose a hotel in the desert). To avoid searching for an ATM just make sure to bring enough cash for the whole stay. Many hotels may accept credit cards, but you’ll definitely need to pay the collectivo bus, tuk tuk, and tours with cash.
5. Wear sunscreen or bring layers and hats to protect from sun
Like I said, the sun is really strong here so avoid getting burnt and protect your skin as much as possible.
→ Some of my picks:
6. Don’t forget your bathing suit
When packing, your mind may be on the desert instead of thinking of swimming, so don’t forget your bathing suit if you plan to swim.
7. Grab water and food in Villavieja
If you’re staying at a hotel in the desert, you may want to grab some water and snacks in Villavieja before getting a tuk tuk to your hotel. Because many of those hotels are secluded, water can be overpriced there.
At Tubo hotel, everything was normally priced and Villavieja is walking distance so no worries there.
SOLO TRAVEL IN TATACOA DESERT
Full disclaimer, although I’m usually a solo traveler myself, I did not go to Tatacoa Desert alone. Sara, my good friend and roommate living with me in Medellin came with me.
However, since I travel solo often, I feel I can offer some perspective here.
Solo travel to Tatacoa Desert is possible for sure. It can see it being a lot to navigate getting there for a new solo traveler, but it’s doable and as far as I could tell it’s a safe area. Like always though, I suggest practicing basic safety precautions when traveling alone.
That being said, I’m not sure it’s an ideal place for solo travel. I say this because it may be more difficult to meet people here just because it’s a small town, it’s off the beaten path, and there’s not a big hostel.
Which doesn’t necessarily mean you shouldn’t go alone. Only that unlike other destinations where you can meet other travelers to explore with, at Tatacoa that’s unlikely and you may feel very secluded there. If you’re okay with that though, then go for it!
For questions or if you found this blog helpful, leave a comment below. And enjoy your trip to Desierto de Tatacoa!
More Resources for Your Trip to Colombia
Planning your own trip? Here’s some resources I used to book and coordinate my itinerary through Colombia along with some recommendations:
Hostels
If you’re a budget traveler or looking for an easy way to meet others, Hostelworld is the best place to search. Below are some of my recommendations, click to search for availability!
- Medellin: Hostel Rango Boutique OR Los Patios
- Cartagena: Life is Good Hostel
- Santa Marta: Viajero
- Minca: Mundo Nuevo Eco Lodge OR Masaya Casas Viejas
- Salento: Coffee Tree Boutique
- Bogota: Cranky Croc Hostel
- Cali: Viajero Hostel & Salsa School
- Palomino: Casa Chapolin
Hotels
Booking.com is the way to go when search for hotels in Colombia because they typically offer free cancellation with plenty of affordable to more luxurious stays.
Flights
Flights to Colombia from the U.S. are typically the most affordable in South America to Bogota, Medellin, Cartagena, or Cali. Domestic flights within Colombia also tend to be pretty affordable especially if traveling light. To find the best deal & prices I recommend using Skyscanner.
BUSES
The easiest way to search for and book buses in Colombia is with BusBud where you can easily compare options and use a platform in English. Check it out here.
Insurance
Travel insurance is a must for every trip, especially when coming to a destination like Colombia where you may be doing adventurous activities, taking a lot of buses, and theft is a higher risk. Make sure you’re covered!
My go to travel insurance is always WorldNomads which is made for backpackers. You can search for coverage here.
If you’re a digital nomad looking for travel medical emergency insurance, I also suggest Safety Wing.
Tours & Experiences
There’s a lot of free thing to do in Colombia or experiences you can do on your own. I always recommend checking blog posts for inspiration. If you’re interested in tours though like a boat tour of Rosario Islands, a day trip to Guatape from Medellin, or a trek to the Lost City then I suggest checking on GetYourGuide & Viator.
Know Before You Go
Check out my Colombia Destination Page here for information on visas, health requirements, currency, outlets, and more.
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zidane
Posted at 02:11h, 17 Octobergreat place to visit, thank you for creating this article
Caroline Rose
Posted at 18:42h, 18 Novemberno problem, I’m glad you enjoyed it!