24 Jun A Budget Travel Guide to Puerto Viejo, Costa Rica
Some people say, if you didn’t go to the Caribbean side, did you even visit Costa Rica? While the majority of tourists flock to the west coast, the east coast of Costa Rica also has some must-see gems like Puerto Viejo de Talamanca.
Puerto Viejo is a beautiful beach town full of Afro-Carribean and Latino culture, delicious food, good vibes, and stunning coastline. It’s also one of the best places to visit in Costa Rica if you’re on a budget.
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How to Get to Puerto Viejo
Puerto Viejo de Talamanca is on the south east coast corner of Costa Rica. It’s about 215 km from San Jose and only 40km away from Panama.
To arrive in Costa Rica, first you’ll need to fly to San Jose. Skyscanner usually has some of the best flight deals.
Once you arrive, I wouldn’t recommend staying more than a night in San Jose before moving on (unless you want to visit surrounding areas). From San Jose it’s then about a 7 hour drive to Puerto Viejo which you can reach by car or bus.
Renting a car in Costa Rica is very popular among tourists, however not the most budget friendly. Unless you’re traveling with a few friends to split the bill, the daily car rental price and insurance really rack up. Having a car in Puerto Viejo is not entirely necessary either. However, if you have some travel buddies it may be worth it, although I recommend reading this post before renting.
The next, and cheapest way to get to Puerto Viejo is by bus.
You can do this by taking the MEPE bus from San Jose which runs every day and is 5,995 colones which is about $10 USD. You don’t need to book ahead, just show up at the bus station beforehand and pay at the register. Make sure to bring colones, they do accept US dollars, but the exchange rate is awful.
The bus will take about 5 hours, but could take up to 6 with traffic. Also in Limon, there will be a stop for about 15 minutes where you can use the bathroom and get some food and drinks.
The bus begins at 6 AM and runs every few hours. If possible, I recommend taking the earliest bus. On my way to Puerto Viejo I took this one and it went by quicker because I slept and there was no traffic in the morning. Plus, it was much cooler (the buses might have AC but it does not circulate well and everyone opens their windows anyways).
Once you arrive in Puerto Viejo, if staying in the town you may be able to walk to your accommodation. Otherwise, you can take a tuk tuk. From the bus stop to where I stayed (Selina) it was 2,000 colones for a tuk tuk (~$3 USD).
To get back to San Jose, after your stay, simply take the same bus from the same bus stop you were dropped off at.
Best Time to Visit Puerto Viejo
Puerto Viejo’s dry season is from December to April, but I wouldn’t rule out visiting the other months. In fact I visited in June and it was sunny most days, and on the few times it rained it only did so for a few hours in the afternoon.
If you’re visiting Costa Rica during the rainy season, I would actually definitely recommend going to Puerto Viejo because I was told when it’s rainy everywhere else, go to the Caribbean side.
Where to stay in Puerto Viejo:
If you have a travel partner, it may be worth it to you to split a Airbnb and still stay in a lower budget. There are a few for under $70 a night.
However, if you’re a solo and budget traveler such as myself, you already know hostels are the way to go.
There are quite a few hostels in Puerto Viejo mostly between $15-25 USD. I stayed at Selina which was about $17 USD a night which I highly, highly recommend. It was clean, comfortable, with good vibes and a great location. It’s a 15 minute walk from town, on the beach and 5 minute walk to Playa Cocles.
→ Search for availability at Selina here
Sometimes, however, Selina does tend to majorly lift their prices the closer to your travel date or during higher seasons. If that’s the case, some other more budget-friendly options are Kalunai Hostel, Madre Selva Hostel, and Pagalu Hostel.
Things to Do in Puerto Viejo
1. Surf and sunbathe at Playa Cocles
One of the more popular beaches to tourists is Playa Cocles which is a short walk or bike ride from most places in Puerto Viejo. The beach is perfect for sunbathing, to play volleyball or soccer, there’s even a beach slackline.
The most popular activity though is surfing. Surf lessons are $60 which is pricey, but if you already know how to, it’s about $15 to just rent a board. You can rent on the beach or from a shop (Selina hostel also has boards you can rent).
COSTS:
Beach – free
Surf board rental – $15 USD
Rental & 2 hour lesson – $60 USD
2. Explore wildlife and beaches at Cahuita National Park
For pristine beaches and a chance to see monkeys, sloths and other wildlife, definitely go to Cahuita National Park. It’s a short 20 minute public bus drive from Puerto Viejo that’s about $1.50 USD to ride.
At Cahuita, you walk through a lush 8 km trail full of life. You’ll see monkeys, sloths, interesting bugs, hermit crabs, lizards, and possibly more. Make sure to pack your bathing suit too so you can make a pitstop to sunbathe under the palm trees!
COSTS:
Bus there & back – $3 USD
Entrance fee – $3-10 USD
You can also hire a guide which many find worth it. By paying for a guide you’ll definitely see way more (because they know where to look) but you can also do the trail self-guided if you wish. I went through the park self-guided with friends and we saw monkeys, two sloths, some bugs and crabs.
3. Take a yoga class
While in Puerto Viejo, take some time for yourself to wind down with some yoga. There’s a great yoga studio called Amaser that hosts daily yoga at 8am and 5pm for just $5.
If you stay at Selina, they also have yoga every morning at 8am for free as a part of your booking. While in Puerto Viejo I started my mornings like this and it was magical to move my body surrounded by jungle forest to the sound of small waves.
COST:
If staying at Selina – FREE
Amaser class – $5 USD
4. Bike to Punta Uva
Playa Punta Uva may have been my favorite beach while visiting for its beauty and vibes. Here there are many locals hanging out announced by their latino music, but if you wish to be more secluded, you can simply walk down the beach which is rather large. Because Punta Uva’s waves are calm, it’s the perfect place to take a dip and you can even kayak and paddle board the coastline.
To get to Punta Uva, you can either take a public bus or rent a bike. Although a bike is an extra cost to the public bus, it does add to the experience so you can admire the full Costa Rica forest on the way.
COSTS:
Beach – free
Bike rental – $6 USD
5. Explore the town of Puerto Viejo
In this small beach town you’ll find an array of local Caribbean food and boutique shops. Although some of the shops can be much more expensive than expected, it’s still lots of fun to explore and get your bearings, and who knows, maybe you’ll find a deal!
COST:
Window shopping – free
6. Walk the black sand beach of Playa Negra
This is a much less popular beach than the ones I’ve mentioned so far but it is unique for its black sand. Also, while most surf lessons will be at Playa Cocles, it’s Playa Negra that’s a great spot for beginners who just want to rent a board and take a go.
COST:
Beach – free
Surf Board Rental – $15 USD
7. Enjoy a happy hour with friends
If you drink, many places such as Selina and HotRocks offer a happy hour such as 2 for the price of 1 from 5 PM – 7 PM that you should take advantage of. The most popular local beer is Imperial which is usually 1200 colones/$2 USD for one (or two during happy hour!).
COST:
2 for 1 drink – usually around 1200-1500 colones (~$2-$3 USD)
8. Take a day trip to Manzanillo
Manzanillo is a small fishing village south of Puerto Viejo with a stunning, quiet beach. It’s much less crowded than others and there’s also a shipwreck wedged into the sand you can explore. It’s a great place to sunbathe, swim, snorkel and there are even some hiking trails.
Because Manzanillo is farther out, I recommend taking a day trip here. You can either take the public bus or rent a bike, although be prepared for a longer bike ride – it’s about 13 km from Puerto Viejo’s center.
COST:
Beach – free
Bike rental – $6
Public bus – $2-3 USD
Cheap Places to eat in Puerto Viejo
If you’re on a budget, there are many food places you can still try that are delicious and not too expensive.
Local Sodas – A soda in Costa Rica is a locally run restaurant with authentic food. There are many in Puerto Viejo; a meal usually costs between $5-10 USD.
Joe’s Snack Point – I really liked the Caribbean food and vibes here and the owner was great. A meal is around $5-10 USD.
Port Vell – A delicious, healthy cafe with food choices for around $5 that are definitely instagram worthy!
These next two are not cheap by any means, but if you’re looking to treat yourself then I highly recommend these beachfront restaurants:
Spicy Coconut – A beautiful restaurant near the beach that serves Costa Rican dishes and other cuisines
Grow – A vegan food restaurant on the beach in Puerto Viejo center
But if you’re on a much tighter budget like I usually am, I recommend heading to the supermarket and cooking for the majority of your meals. From Selina, I usually went to the closest supermarket in town, or to the Green Market past Playa Cocles. Many budget travelers cook in Costa Rica to save money and Selina Puerto Viejo has a good kitchen to do so.
Puerto Viejo Budget Breakdown:
Altogether, here’s the budget breakdown of visiting Puerto Viejo:
Bus from San Jose to Puerto Viejo: $10 USD
Bus from Puerto Viejo to San Jose: $10 USD
Tuk tuks: $3-5
Hostels: $15 – 20 USD per night
Bike rental: $6 per day
Public buses: $1-3 USD per ride
Beaches: FREE
Cahuita National Park: $10 USD
Surf board rental: $15 USD
Surfboard lessons: $60 for 2 hours
Yoga class: $5 USD per class
Jaguar Rescue Center: $22 USD entrance fee
Beer: $2-3 USD per bottle at restaurant
Local food: $5-10 USD per meal
Water: $2 USD per 2 liter at grocery store
Altogether, Puerto Viejo is much more affordable than many places in Costa Rica because a car is not necessary and it’s not a massive tourist hub just yet. Save this post and add this Caribbean paradise to your Costa Rica bucket list. Pura Vida!
More Resources for Your Trip to Costa Rica
Planning your own trip? Here’s some resources I used to book and coordinate my itinerary through Costa Rica along with some recommendations:
Hostels
If you’re a budget traveler or looking for an easy way to meet others, Hostelworld is the best place to search. Below are some of my recommendations, click to search for availability!
- La Fortuna: Selina
- Puerto Viejo de Talamanca: Selina
- Manuel Antonio: Hostel Plinio OR Selina
- Monteverde: Outbox Inn OR Camino Verde
- Tamarindo: La Botella de Leche
- Santa Teresa: Zeneidas Surf Garden
- San Jose: Selina
Hotels
Booking.com is the way to go when searching for hotels in Costa Rica because they typically offer free cancellation with plenty of affordable to more luxurious stays.
Flights
It’s possible to fly to Costa Rica into either San Jose or Liberia. To find the best deal & prices I recommend using Skyscanner.
Getting Around Costa Rica
Domestic flights aren’t really a thing in Costa Rica, so that leaves two ways to get around: bus and renting a car. Renting a car is extremely popular in Costa Rica, but I recommend reading this blog post first before doing so. Buses are the most affordable option (esp. as a solo traveler) to getting around Costa Rica. My favorite way to navigate buses in Costa Rica is using Rome2Rio.
Insurance
Travel insurance is a must for every trip to ensure you’re covered in unexpected situations. My go to is WorldNomads which has a generous coverage and is made for backpackers. You can search for coverage here.
Tours & Experiences
A lot of experiences in Costa Rica you can do on your own like hiking, sunbathing and surfing at the beach. I always recommend checking blog posts for inspiration. If you’re interested in tours though for difficult experiences to do on your own then I suggest using GetYourGuide & Viator.
Know Before You Go
Check out my Costa Rica Destination Page here for information on visas, health requirements, currency, outlets, and more.
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