25 Jun Your Complete Guide to Bariloche: The Entrance to Patagonia
Welcome to San Carlos de Bariloche, Argentina – a cozy town in northern Patagonia known for its bright blue lakes, mountain views, colorful forests and delicious chocolate! Often the beginning or end of an extensive trip through Patagonia, Bariloche has something to offer for the adventure seeker, foodie, or someone just looking to relax.
In this travel guide, I’ll share everything you need to know to visit and some of my favorite recommendations as someone who loved Bariloche so much they stayed a month. If you’re interested in the best things to do and some insider travel tips, then keep reading!
Is Bariloche Good for Solo Travelers?
Yes! Bariloche is an amazing place for solo travelers and in my opinion, one of the best solo travel destinations in Argentina. It’s safe, has good public transport, lots of tours available, and there are many activities you can do on your own. If you wish, it’s also really easy to meet other travelers as its a popular destination.
I enjoyed my solo travels to Bariloche so much that it may one of my favorite places in Argentina and I couldn’t recommend it more for other solo travelers.
What's in this post
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Where is Bariloche?
How to Get to Bariloche
Ways to Get Around Bariloche
Where to stay
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Where is Bariloche?
San Carlos de Bariloche is in the Rio Negro province of Argentina, at the southern shore of Nahuel Huapi Lake not far from the border of Chile. It’s in what’s called the Lake District of Patagonia and considered the northernmost entry point to Patagonia from Argentina.
Bariloche itself is a small city, but is the perfect hub to explore many surrounding destinations during your stay.
Below you can find Bariloche on a map.
HOW TO GET THERE
To get to Bariloche you can fly, take a bus, or drive yourself if you’re on a road trip.
Direct flights are only available from Buenos Aires and Cordoba. Make sure to keep this in mind if you’re planning a trip through Patagonia as there are no direct flights from El Calafate to Bariloche.
To take a bus to Bariloche you can get one from practically all surrounding Argentina destinations. Admittedly though, this can result in some pretty long haul drives since Argentina is such a massive country.
For perspective, I took the popular backpacker route from El Chalten to Bariloche and it was a 24 hour long bus… It definitely wasn’t my favorite day but the driver did stop multiple times for food and coffee and the bus wasn’t bad in terms of comfort beyond just being long. For budget travelers or those looking to fly less, you’ll be fine, just download a lot of movies and don’t forget to bring a book.
You can easily book bus tickets online or you can purchase them at the terminal. If you’re coming from anywhere in southern Patagonia to Bariloche, I strongly recommend buying your ticket early since the seats can fill up especially in high season. The company used is Marga Taqsa.
Alternatively, if you’re road tripping through Patagonia, you’ll drive on the famous Route 40 to reach Bariloche.
WAYS TO GET AROUND BARILOCHE
One of my favorite things about Bariloche is that there are many different modes of transportation, especially for a destination focused on outdoor activities. This means it’s really easy to get around for all types of travelers.
TAXIS
Like most places, there are plenty of taxis around that you can hail, just make to have cash to pay. You likely won’t take them often, but taxis are useful to get to trailheads if buses are full.
Note, as of March 2023 there are no rideshares like Uber available in Bariloche.
Buses
The most affordable way to get around is definitely by public bus which is pretty well organized and easy to navigate with the help of Google Maps and the Bariloche Tourism website. If you’ve already traveled to Buenos Aires you may be familiar with SUBE, the same public transportation system used in Bariloche.
SUBE is used by purchasing a SUBE card and then loading money onto the card at a kiosco or online. When taking the bus, you hop on at a stop and the driver will ask the name of your end destination. Based on this, your fare will appear on the SUBE screen and you’ll tap your card to pay.
It’s pretty straightforward, the only issue is that finding a SUBE card is sometimes difficult because they’re very scarce. Therefore if you find one, hold onto it! I bought mine in Mendoza and thankfully saved it to use in Buenos Aires and then Bariloche which saved me a lot of hassle.
But if you’re arriving in Bariloche without a SUBE card, you can try to buy one at the tourism office or a kiosco with a SUBE sign.
The price of the SUBE card can depend but shouldn’t be more than a few USD or less. Because of Argentina’s high inflation the price of bus fares will change over time, but when I visited the fare was around 100 pesos which at the time equaled about 25 ￠USD.
To find out when and where buses stop, you can see the Bariloche bus schedule here.
Lastly, if you want to visit other towns close by like El Bolson, Villa Angostura, or San Martin de Los Andes, there are also private buses available. Tickets can be purchased online or at the bus terminal.
Rental Car
Probably the most fun way to travel around Bariloche is with a car so that you can freely explore and go on mini-road trips. Renting can be done easily online, and if you’re visiting during high season I recommend doing so ahead of time.
Overall prices of rentals can vary, but when my friend and I rented a car for a weekend in March 2023 it was about 12,000 pesos per day which equaled about $30 USD.
Bike
Another way to get around Bariloche is to bike. Just note that it is a pretty hilly region, so depending on where you’re going prepare for a small challenge.
Bike rentals are available within the town or outside of it right at the beginning of Circuito Chico at km 18*.
*What do I mean about km 18? Bariloche has sectioned and labeled the area by km so often you’ll hear destinations or bus stops being at a certain km. If you go to the tourism office they’ll give you a map with these references.
WHERE TO STAY
The most convenient place to stay (especially if you’re without a car) is in Bariloche’s city center where you’ll be close to restaurants, tour agencies, and the main bus stops.
If you’re renting a car for the duration of your trip, there are also many accommodation options outside of the city center. These are ideal if you’re looking for a more private or tranquil place.
My Recommendations
Budget $
Penthouse 1004 is a favorite hostel of mine because of its helpful staff, friendly atmosphere, and clean rooms. Not to mention that it has one of the best views of Bariloche in the city, and offers a free breakfast. Check availability here.
But if you’re looking for a cheaper option, I recommend Hopa Home Hostel, a comfy house with a welcoming vibe in a fantastic location. Check availability here.
Standard $$
If you want a private space but still reasonably priced, there are many private apartments. For example, check out this studio within the city, and this beautiful house outside of Bariloche.
If you prefer a fully serviced hotel though, I recommend Hostería Güemes or Peninsula Petit.
Luxury $$$
The most famous hotel in Bariloche, and possibly Patagonia, is the Llao Llao Resort which sits on a hill in between the Moreno and Nahuel Huapi Lakes along Circuito Chico.
Inside the hotel the decor embodies the comfort sought out in the mountains and guests are rewarded with views of the Andes from their room and terraces. Check availability here for this bucket list stay.
THINGS TO DO IN BARILOCHE
Explore Circuito Chico
Circuito Chico is a scenic loop-road outside Bariloche’s center that tourists can drive or bike, stopping at a number of viewpoints, landmarks, trails, and eateries.
Many of Bariloche’s top destinations are located somewhere on this route, so taking a day trip to explore is a great way to get started in Bariloche. If you’re short on time, it’s also the best way to see the main sights in one day.
This was the first activity I did in Bariloche, and I think it’s what sold me. Immediately I fell in love with the sights and the colors. The cute food trailers every few kilometers also helped. My only tweak if I were to complete it again, would be to rent an electric bike. Circuito Chico is pretty hilly!
Here’s a few places I suggest stopping along Circuito Chico:
- Punto Panoramico
- Patagonia Cervecería
- Cerveceria & Restaurante Gilbert
- Lago Escondido
- Mirador Bahia Lopez
- Llao Llao Resort
- Capilla San Eduardo
You’ll also see much more along the way and can pull over whenever you like! If you rent a bike, they’ll also give you a map with the stops labeled.
→ Read more details about how to bike Circuito Chico in this post
Hike to Cerro Llao Llao, Refugio Frey & More
I cannot begin to say how much I love the hiking in Bariloche, for the views of course, but also the level of accessibility. There are many trail options depending on difficulty and length. Plus, with Bariloche’s bus system you can reach most trailheads easily and without a car. The Bariloche Trekking website is especially useful for planning your hike.
Must do hikes in my opinion are the Llao Llao lookout (easy and short) and Refugio Frey (more difficult and longer, but SO worth it).
Some other popular trails are Refugio Lopez and Sendero de los Arrayanes combined with Lago Escondido and Villa Tacul.
Pro tip: If you’re from the U.S. and hike often, you’ve probably heard of AllTrails. This is a great resource even still, but typically in Argentina locals use an app called WikiLoc. It works the same way, you can download trails to follow. I highly recommend using it in combination with the Bariloche Trekking website.
Some of my hiking picks
Checkout the views at Cerro Campanario
Cerro Campanario is probably the most popular viewpoint in Bariloche because of its 360 views of the lakes and mountains all around. To reach the peak, you can either take a joyride up on the ski lift, or hike a short – but very steep – 30 minutes to the top.
If you want to skip this hike, make sure to arrive before 5 PM (when the ski lift closes) and bring some cash to pay. When I visited it was around $5 USD calculated with the blue rate.
The best part, at the top there’s a cafe where you can enjoy some hot chocolate and shield yourself from the wind while still enjoying the views.
Getting there by bus: take the city bus labeled 20 (double check here in case this has changed) from the city center to km 17.5. Cerro Campanario is a very popular stop so the driver will shout it out.
Another popular mirador you can reach by ski lift is Cerro Otto!
7 Lagos Road Trip to San Martin de Los Andes
Another staple activity while in Bariloche, is to visit the 7 Lakes along route 40 towards San Martin de Los Andes. Each lake offers viewpoints from above or at the base where you can dip your toes in.
Although there are many day tours available, I have to say this is most enjoyable if done as a road trip. Driving yourself offers much more flexibility so you can take your time and stay overnight in San Martin. A road trip also allows you the freedom to make additional stops at waterfalls, food trucks, and to even swim in one of the lakes.
If you’re a solo traveler like me, I really encourage you to try and make a friend to do this with. You can also drive it on your own, if you’re comfortable. All the areas along the route are safe and the roads are well paved, just curvy at some parts.
Solo travel tip: some ways to meet friends in Bariloche are on a tour, by staying at a hostel, or striking up conversation with someone on the bus or in a restaurant. People are really friendly in this area!
Here’s some of the stops I recommend:
- Lago Espejo (lake 1)
- Lago Correntoso (lake 2)
- Lago Escondido (lake 3)
- Lago Vallarino (lake 4)
- Lago Falkner (lake 5)
- Lago Machónico (lake 6)
- Lago Lácar (lake 7)
More stops you can make that I recommend:
- Cascada Rio Bonito
- Villa Angostura
- Mirador Bahía Blanca & Mansa
- Cervecería at Lago Falkner
- Cascada Ñivinco
- San Martin de Los Andes
Pro Tip: there’s no service for most of the drive. Make sure to pin destinations you want to stop on your Google Maps app and don’t forget to download offline maps. At the same time though, if you forget, don’t panic! It’s mostly one way so it’s difficult to get lost, and there are many signs for viewpoints.
Tours available if you prefer:
Visit Villa Traful
Villa Traful is a small town at the base of Lago Traful along a road known as Circuito Grande. It’s a bit off the beaten path for most tourists, especially international, but in my opinion, the drive offers some of the most beautiful scenery in the area. Those exploring will have to tolerate a sometimes rough dirt road, but will be rewarded with mountains on both sides and an incredible lookout of the lake.
The town itself is very small so don’t expect too much, but there are a few places to grab a bite to eat and some stunning camping areas near the water.
If you’re looking for an adventure that feels like off-roading just to see some amazing views, Villa Traful and Circuito Grande are for you.
Tip: You can either visit Villa Traful on its own from Bariloche, or on a multi day road trip combined with other destinations.
→ See my 2-3 day 7 Lagos & Villa Traful road trip
Explore Colonia Suiza & Enjoy Curanto
Looking for the most instagrammable place in Bariloche? It’s probably Colonia Suiza. This is a small village you can reach by taking a short detour from Circuito Chico.
Historically a swiss colony, this quaint village is now a touristic center where you can enjoy boutique shops and a market full of goods and various food stands.
While there’s a lot of local food you can try here, the most popular is Curanto. This type of meal originates from the Chiloe islands and is popular in Chile & northern Patagonia – including Bariloche. Essentially it’s a method of cooking where the food is buried in the ground, on top of heated stones which creates an oven. The meat and vegetables slowly cook for hours, and then are unearthed, providing a tasty feast.
I have to admit the coolest part is seeing the cooks unbury the food from the ground. Even if you don’t eat the Curanto meal I recommend going just to see this.
Because this is a huge affair, and obviously a lot of work, Curanto is only offered two times a week in Colonia Suiza: Wednesday’s and Sundays. It’s also required that you sign up to reserve a plate. There are a few Curanto restaurants, I recommend The Gringo which is right in the middle of Colonia Suiza and has an open view of the action.
To reserve, whatsapp them here: +54 9 2944 578178
German and Indigenous walking tours
Bariloche is not without its secrets and stories. Long before it was a hub for controversial German immigration, it was once home to Patagonia’s indigenous people who suffered at the hands of colonization.
If you’re fascinated by this, you can learn about both topics in Bariloche’s two most popular walking tours: The German Footprint and Nazi Presence Tour and the Patagonia Indigenous People’s Tour.
Pro tip: If you’re a solo traveler, walking tours are a great way to get to know other travelers. Strike up a conversation with someone and ask if they want to grab a bite to eat after or join you for a hike the next day!
Kayak on the lake
With stunning lakes all around, it would be a shame to only enjoy them from land. Because of its calm waters, Bariloche is an amazing place to kayak and the perfect afternoon activity paired with a picnic on the beach.
The most popular place to kayak is from Playa Bonita, however it can become crowded here. I much prefer Playa del Moreno: kayaks are cheaper to rent (only a few $ USD) and there are less people. Not to mention the views are much better from Playa del Moreno where you can be an onlooker to fancy cabins in the hills and admire Llao Llao resort in the distance.
hangout At the beaches
Probably not the activity you anticipated doing in Patagonia, but on a sunny day during warmer months a dip in the water followed by reading in the sun might be just what you need.
Some popular beaches in Bariloche are Playa Bonita, Playa Gutierrez and Villa Tacul.
Visit Cerveza Patagonia
This one shouldn’t take much convincing to add to your list because it’s hard to beat sitting in a lawn chair with views like this and a Patagonia beer in hand.
Located along Circuito Chico, you may decide to skip Cerveza Patagonia initially if beer and biking doesn’t sound like a nice combo to you (it didn’t to me). But I encourage you to return for a visit of its own.
At this brewery you can enjoy a golden ale on the lawn paired with some hearty snacks, or sample flights in one of their tasting tours.
Explore the city center & the many cafes and shops
Before or after you catch a bus to go hiking, you must wander through Bariloche’s city center. There are numerous cafes to grab a coffee and shops to tempt you.
In the center you’ll also find an artisanal market full of tasteful souvenirs made from local artists. Personally, I can’t pass up the artisanal markets in Argentina, the uniquely designed rings I’ve found are always my downfall.
Indulge your inner foodie by trying the popular dishes & treats
Not long into a stroll around Bariloche and you can probably guess the treat it’s most famous for: chocolate! Along Mitre Avenue, also known as the Avenue of Chocolate Dreams, you’ll pass by chocolate factories one after another as the sweets tempt you from the glass windows.
Obviously, you have to indulge yourself. My most recommended chocolate shops are Mamushka Chocolate, Frantom Chocolates, and Rapa Nui (some of the best ice cream I had in Argentina, also located in Buenos Aires).
Other delicacies to try include fondu and trout or salmon (you are surrounded by lakes full of fish, after all). And of course this is Argentina, so it wouldn’t be right to visit a new city without visiting a parrilla for asado and wine.
Visit a Tea House
At this point you may know how popular the herbal drink mate is in Argentina. But in Bariloche, traditional tea rooms are also widely embraced. Many are intentionally situated by the lake so that guests can admire outside views while cozily enjoying a warm tea and patisserie.
There are many tea houses in Bariloche, I suggest visiting at least one (al thought you may have a difficult time choosing). Take a look from the list below noting the views and ambiance.
- Casa de Te Blend
- Equs
- Chiado
- Paila Co Salón de Tè
- Meiling Tea House
- Bellevue Salon de Te
Explore Gutierrez Lake, Mirador and Waterfall
Although it’s super close to the center of Bariloche, this area can be overlooked by the distraction of Circuito Chico but it’s actually the perfect day trip to combine activities. At Lago Gutierrez you can sunbathe at the beach, kayak on the lake, hike to the mirador and explore Cascada de Los Duendes.
Mate Tasting
As a tourist in Argentina, you may often see locals drinking mate but wonder where you can try it yourself. It’s more of a personal drink shared amongst friends, but rarely sold anywhere for tourists to try without committing to purchasing the full “kit”.
But in Bariloche there’s a really unique touristic experience – mate tasting! During this class not only will you try mate, but you’ll also learn the history, about the different types of yerba, and how to prepare it yourself.
This was actually one of my favorite things I did in Bariloche because it was such a fascinating experience. I had already drunk a lot of mate while in Argentina, but this gave me the opportunity to learn more about the local obsession.
Puerto Blest & Isla Victoria Boat Tour
Surrounded by lakes, boat tours are a core activity in Bariloche. The two most popular ones are to Isla Victoria and Puerto Blest.
Isla Victoria is in the middle of Lago Nahuel Huapi, and known for the Arrayanes Forest. People go here to explore the lush woodland of pines and enjoy a dip in the clear water from the shore. I actually missed out on this tour, and deeply regret it as the island is meant to be quite magical.
Puerto Blest is the next most popular boat tour, where you’ll sail across the lake passing some of the most beautiful sections before docking. From the port, you can explore places such as Cascada los Cantaros.
FOOD & DRINK
There’s so much to eat and drink in Bariloche, here are some of my favorites:
RESTAURANTS
Chimi Deli Cocina Natural is a restaurant serving healthy food plus many vegan and gluten free options. Even if you don’t fall into these categories, Chimi is a refreshing break from the traditional hearty dishes of Argentina. I loved this place!
Chimi Bar de Choris serves delicious choripan sandwiches in many creative varieties and at an affordable price.
Alto El Fuego Parrilla and La Parrilla de Tony are two of the most popular places in Bariloche to eat meat. When I went to La Parrilla de Tony they were offering a meal combination including an appetizer, salad, meat entree, desert and a bottle of wine for a discounted price, which meant I was eating like a queen for about $20 USD.
La Fonda del Tio and El Boliche de Alberto Pastas are pasta restaurants high in demand that will put you straight into a food coma but will be so worth it.
Note there’s also the sister restaurant El Boliche de Alberto, which is separate and is a parrilla, another good option for asado.
Familia Weiss serves more variety but is especially good for eating smoked trout or salmon, popular dishes in Bariloche. They also often have music in the evenings.
La Casita Restaurante and La Marmite are fantastic options to eat fondue, which is popular in Bariloche because of the Swiss influence.
Manush is probably the most popular pub in Bariloche with over 20k reviews. But beyond drinks, they serve really tasty food – the bondiola (an Argentina sandwich made with porch shoulder) is especially good.
DRINKS
Berkana Lake Bar is a small bar near the water where you can enjoy a beer and snacks while watching sunset over the water. It’s a very laid back spot to end your day.
Cervecería y Restaurante Gilbert is not in Bariloche’s center but rather along Circuito Chico. However, I highly suggest a visit. Gilbert’s feels like such a rustic local spot and was even mentioned in the show Magical Andes. It’s a quiet pub for sure, but they serve good beer and food for the soul.
Wesley is one of the more popular breweries downtown and a great place to meet up with friends. It’s also right next to Alto El Fuego Parilla, so you can go to the pub after if you have any room in your stomach after devouring steak.
Cerveza Patagonia (already mentioned in this post) is a must visit along Circuito Chico where you can taste local beer and enjoy lake views from a lawn chair.
Berlina Cervecería is another brewpub at km 12 and many tourist’s favorite. They serve craft beer, delicious pizza and other savory cravings.
CAFES & TEA HOUSES
Vertiente Café Con Ideas is my favorite cafe in Bariloche. The owner is very sweet, they have incredible coffee and they also sell mate to try.
Residente Cafe Bistro is a small cafeteria inside what looks like a cottage. It’s not super popular but I think it’s a really nice place to enjoy a cafe outside with a book. Also very close to the beach within the city if you want to visit.
Meiling Tea House is a beautiful place to enjoy sweets and a tea or coffee while enjoying views over the city. It’s etched in a neighborhood area on the hill, but very much worth the visit.
CHOCOLATE & SWEETS
Rapa Nui has the best ice cream and there’s even an ice skating rink inside.
Mamushka Chocolate and Frantom Chocolates have loads of chocolate flavors to try, you must treat yourself to a box.
Thanks for reading!
Leave a comment if you found this helpful or if you end up loving Bariloche as much as I did! I’m positive you will.
More Resources for Your Trip to Argentina
Flights
If you’re flying to Argentina, the most affordable place to arrive will be Buenos Aires. Because the country is so large, it’s most convenient to fly in between most destinations. I use Skyscanner to find affordable flights.
BUSES
Buses can be really, really long in Argentina, but they are more budget-friendly if you’re willing to endure the long hours to cut back on costs or your flying. However, I don’t recommend them for people not used to buses or who get car sick, just because they can be so long.
If you do take buses between destinations, it’s cheaper to pay in cash at terminals, but for some buses in Patagonia it’s better to book online and/or ahead of time to secure your seat. I always check Bus Bud.
BOOK YOUR TRAVEL INSURANCE
Travel insurance is a must to cover an unexpected health issues or cancellations. Right now I use SafetyWing which has affordable plans.
Get Phone Data in Argentina
If you don’t have international roaming and you’re looking for a convenient way to have phone data, try an eSim card. Airalo is what I recommend most as it has worldwide plans and an easy set-up.
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Jeanne K
Posted at 14:26h, 06 AugustHello, thank you for your detailed article! Very helpful. One question, did you venture into the grocery stores or food markets? We are thinking about staying a month there but just want to make sure it is easy to buy fresh produce if we stay in the downtown area.
Caroline Rose
Posted at 18:15h, 09 AugustHi Jeanne, yes! Actually I stayed a month in Bariloche too and shopped for groceries most of the time. There are plenty of options and fresh produce